Identity is what humankind strives for. It is easy to be given an identity, but it isn’t always easy to find one’s own. With culture and society going through demanding changes and transitions, identities shift, requiring people to reevaluate and adapt. This can cause major human tragedies, such as war, rebellion, discrimination, and mass immigration. There is a corner of Canada, however, that has morphed and altered its state in order to survive.

Fogo is a small island of less than 100 square miles that lies on the northeast coast of Newfoundland. Its harsh climate and limited resources have led to an identity crisis over the past century. Famous for its fishing trade and reliant on the sea’s resources, Fogo has been home to thousands of fisher people for centuries. Europeans have visited the area to fish for cod since the 16th century, but the first settlers did not do so until the 18th century, when fishermen from England and Ireland settled in Fogo to benefit from its abundant fish and untouched nature.

Since then, the history and culture of Fogo has been centred around the fishing industry. The local shores offered an abundance of cod, and the selling of dried cod led to a booming industry through the late 19th century and majority of the 20th. This was jeopardized by the Second World War and the postwar years. With the revival of Newfoundland’s economy after World War Two, the British were keen to cut their ties with the area and make Newfoundland part of the Canadian Confederation. This was officially declared in 1949; Newfoundland and Labrador has been a province of Canada ever since. ››

After the implementation of the new government system in the area, and with the increased availability of modern amenities—like electricity and running water—the Canadian authorities and provincial government were forced to offer these services to the people of Fogo. The location of the island meant the installation of these services was an expensive undertaking. The authorities declared the people of Fogo should be relocated. This was successfully resisted by the islanders of Fogo throughout the 1950s and early 1960s, but in 1967 the fishing industry hit rock bottom and many islanders had to rely on welfare support.

This predicament inspired what is now called The Fogo Process; a series of 27 short films commissioned by Challenge for Change, a film project established by the National Film Board of Canada. These films documented the unique identity of the island and its peoples, and helped to save the community and preserve the identity of the island.

The cod industry continued to suffer through the latter stages of the 20th century, but the fishing industry was rescued by a shift to catching shrimp and crab. This has proven to be a successful transition and has allowed many fisher people to continue the traditions of an island reliant on the ocean that surrounds it.

This brief history reflects the island’s ruggedness and individuality, as well as its ability to adapt and succeed under natural and governmental adversities. This is still clear today. ››

The first view of the island comes from the ferry. The port is still and deserted, other than a line-up of temporarily unoccupied cars awaiting the next ferry. The initial impression is one of solitude and calm, both serene and unnerving sensations. The drive from the port to the town of Joe Batt’s Arm is windy and lined with nothing but forest. This is the case until all of a sudden the trees disappear and the marshland and rock faces replace them. Caribou are grazing the area and the cold winds are whirling through the car’s openings. This is a far cry from the city.

The sea air is recognizably different than that near the lakes. Here, the air is damp and bitter, and seems to permeate the most durable of materials. The island seems to be in the hands of Mother Nature. The sea has defined the landscape and those who inhabit the island must succumb to her desires. There is no need for art or philosophy here. The land and sea are in charge and the people must build, work, and act in a way that is governed by the natural landscape.

This outlook has been quashed by the vision of Zita Cobb, CEO and Co-Founder of the Shorefast Foundation. Zita was born on Fogo and grew up on the island until one day her father had had enough. The story goes that Zita’s father had a bad day on the seas and only caught one fish. He stomped up to his home and barged into the kitchen, threw his fish on the floor and declared that he was done. He decided then and there he was moving his family to Toronto. Zita went on to find great success in the city, and in 2001 she moved away from the corporate world to pursue her interests in philanthropy and use her fortune to invest in her community.

The Shorefast Foundation is now a vibrant and dedicated organization; which has transformed the island’s present, and future. The foundation began by introducing a series of art studios to offer to artists and writers across the globe. This was the beginning of the transition of Fogo Island from an outport community to a tourist destination. The studios were carefully planned to use the natural beauty of Fogo as a draw for artists everywhere, not only complimenting the natural history of the area, but helping to bring outsiders in, giving the island another industry and potentially helping the depleting population of the island. The population decreases every year: the 2006 and 2011 censuses confirm that, showing a drop from 2,706 in 2006 to 2,395 in 2011. This is worrying for the locals and so the studios were partly established to help that.

Zita and the foundation also wanted to ensure the studios signified this shift in the way they were designed. She brought in Newfoundland-born architect Todd Saunders to design the structures. Their focus was on creating spaces that embraced natural locations and materials, yet juxtaposed it. Therefore, the studios are magnificent landmarks that scream modernity, yet encapsulate tradition.

This achievement has been furthered by the 2013 opening of the Fogo Island Inn. The inn was the next step in Zita’s and Shorefast’s redevelopment of Fogo, and is perhaps their greatest achievement. Again, Todd Saunders was the architect and he has helped make the structure an icon of Fogo Island. It’s ethical and community-based ideology has created an industry of tourism for the island, without jeopardizing the island’s history or identity. It has only added to it.

The hotel is a vision to behold. Its modern lines are complimented by its ode to Fogo architecture. Built on stilts and entirely of wood, the inn understands its role on the island; its purpose is to create an industry and its vision to boost a community. The inn employs local people and was built by local tradespeople. It uses its natural surroundings and embraces its innate beauty. This wonder continues into the interior. The open reception is laced with wooden features, from its flooring to the furniture. The angular stairway offers its services and the elevator is mapped with the isles and fishing shoals of the area. Almost everything within the inn is made on the island, by islanders, and the combination with top designers and local craftspeople creates a welcoming and homely ambience.

This is confirmed by the instant welcoming of the staff and a reminder of the hotel being a home away from home for its guests. The use of first names and the omittance of name tags creates an immediate equality between staff and guest. It feels as if you are sleeping over at a friend’s house. This, by no means, takes away from the level of service offered—everything is thought of. The usual hotel services are offered, but it’s the details that make this place stand out from the crowd. For example, every morning, a locally made tackle box is placed outside your door carrying your choice of hot drink, a homemade pastry, and juice made in-house. This allows you to enjoy a quiet moment looking out at the vast ocean, without worrying about your stomach rumbling.

Not only are the culinary delights delivered to your room, but all meals are included in the price of the room and are guaranteed not to disappoint. This attention to detail, married with the traditional and local hospitality, has defined the inn and has made it one of the best hotels in the world. It’s clear the philosophy of the inn has been thoroughly and meticulously planned from the outset. Each aspect of the inn’s design, facilities, and staff members is centred on its guests, without jeopardizing its community.

The integration of intricate design and pragmatic tradition shows that this hotel understands its identity. Fogo Island Inn is honest with its employees, its visitors, and the local people, and it understands the importance of its role in the future of the island. The time spent here is time to reflect on one’s own identity and how one can help his or her community and environment. By understanding one’s history one can bring a clearer understanding of one’s future. Not only does this island and its people seem to understand its identity, but it helps to guide its visitors to understand theirs. Not many places in the world can offer that. Let’s hope more can follow in the footsteps of Fogo Island, its inn, its studios, and its people.

This is the future of tourism.